Hair colour trends from the runway

My job as Headmasters Colour Ambassador is to spot trends and formulate techniques and concepts based on these trends. The most obvious place to spot these trends would be to head to the latest runway collections. Over the last few years there has been a common denominator which has been long and natural looking hair. However for the last few seasons there have been huge changes. Models are no longer being booked to look similar but for their individuality which is really exciting. It has opened doors to creative colour and more individualism. I’m not saying everyone now is going to shave their hair off and dye it rainbow colours but it will definitely encourage change and at the very least plant the idea of change.

I've spotted 3 key trends that can easily be adapted and altered to be made individual for everyone.  

1. RED

 

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  1. The colour red will be leading the way this AW not only all over the style circuit it is the leading colour(flame scarlet ) as predicted by Pantone who are the leading predictors of colour within design, fashion and creative industries. Models such as Katherine Moore and actress Lily Collins have also been seen sporting it. This red is fiery but remains expensive looking with an underlying cool tone which softens it and keeps it looking wearable. Understandably red is not for everyone but why not try a nod to the trend and ask for mahogany which is a brunette shade with underlying tones of red - perfect for winter!

2. COLOUR MELT

 

Colour melting is a technique which blends and merges one colour into another. It has become increasingly popular as it's a technique that can be made as bold or as soft as you want. Die hard highlight lady's can now opt for a colour melt technique which will maintain the blondes throughout the ends but add a more natural tone throughout their roots and brunettes can work their natural colour on the root but melt an alternative tone throughout the ends. This will draw attention to the blonde or tones on the ends whilst keeping it low maintenance and look after the condition of the hair. If you wanted to sport a bolder version of this you could opt for pastels or a variation of copper and red tones (just an idea). This technique works best on long lengths as the longer the length the more you can see the different tones that are graduated.

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3. BLONDE PASTELS

 

It was a trend that we thought was only a fad but it seems it's here to stay. What’s great is that it's given blondes or those with blonde colour in their hair a chance to have fun with their colour without the commitment. Often in winter, blonde clients feel they have to darken their hair but that does not need to be the case. Yes the season has changed and we are wearing different shades but it doesn't necessarily mean going darker is the answer. Opt for changing the tone of your blonde with hues of rose gold, lavender or blushed pink. These tones are great for blondes as they will easily fade out of the hair leaving you with option to enjoy your blonde or change your tone next time. You can also alter the shade of your pastel to really compliment your skin tone, makeup and clothes by asking your colourist to adjust your bespoke colour mix with cool tone, warm tones or clear which can soften and pastelise the end effect.  

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Find your colour tribe

The inspiration for my new What’s your Colour Tribe service came from a need to start colour conversations in salon. I really wanted to look at helping clients identify with their stylist and help them to understand exactly what they want from their colour appointment. Some clients know and understand exactly what suits them and what to ask for but often I've found that clients find it hard to communicate exactly what they would like or aren't familiar with all the techniques we offer so are apprehensive to try or ask for something new. To help make it easier for our clients, I worked closely with Headmasters PR & Marketing team and came up with 3 Colour Tribes;

 

  Colour Convince Me  – You are sort of happy with your colour but you’re still searching for a hair colour cut that has the wow factor. You require advice on tweeks that could be made   

Colour Convince Me – You are sort of happy with your colour but you’re still searching for a hair colour cut that has the wow factor. You require advice on tweeks that could be made

 

  Colour Courageous  – You are up for anything; you love changing up your look and get excited about new colour trends.

Colour Courageous – You are up for anything; you love changing up your look and get excited about new colour trends.

  Colour Confidence  – You know what suits you and just want to make the most of it. 

Colour Confidence – You know what suits you and just want to make the most of it. 

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colour contouring

It`s not only styling products and hair cuts that can alter the shape of hair

 With clever colour placement you can work on curing 4 major hair wants a needs

such as 

lack of texture - for hair that you wish to see wave or movement 

lack of volume -for hair that feels flat 

lack of definition -for the bobs or midis that don`t feel blunt enough on the edges 

and lack of framing and shape around the face-this is great for  enhacing features  such as cheekbones and eyes 

cut defining hair colour
volume enhacing colour
texture enhancing colour
contouring hair colour

Creating the perfect steel grey ......as seen on Jade from Little mix

Tips for in salon colourists

Creating the perfect grey/silver is totally bespoke to the person but there are some staple steps you must follow: 
1) Very pale  yellow blonde lift
Hair needs to be lifted to a clean pale blonde in order for the tone that gets placed on after to shine through
(I recommend checking sensitivity of the hair prior to going ahead with this .I  love using L'Oréal platinum plus as it lifts whilst still hydrating the hair )
2)Suitability 
Because the lift is so  bright and light you need to make sure it suits the wearer .
Opt for global all over greys if you are working with a client with light eyes such as blue and pale green or if like Jade they  have darker eyes work with a more natural root and place the Lighter silver tones on the ends
3)The right undertone (undercoat ) 
With hair colour we have to really think about how colours will react when they are mixed
For instance red and blue will make purple
Or yellow and blue make green
Reason being if you use a colour containing blue on hair that Is yellow guess what colour you get ?...........a nice greeny blue
When lifting ,hair will often lift from red -orange -and Orange -yellow and yellow to pale yellow for the lightest result .
Before you put your grey tone on you need to remove that yellow shade to ensure the greeny blue thing  doesn't happen .
I worked with a very light violet toner 10.22 dia light first and left that on until I achieved a delicate violet hue
(I wished for my silver to have a shimmer of violet so that is why I went for that )
4) When creating grey /silver you then want to be working with a combination of shades 
The majority being the desired depth mixed with ash or clear natural
+ 1-4 cm of  your black tone (the more black you add the darker your grey will be )and then you can add any additional tone to adjust your end result. 
If you want it more blue add more blue ash
If you want more violet add more violet ash tone
For instance
10
+10 1/2.22
+ 2cm 1 for  a more violet

Or
9.11
+ black for mor blue tone

5) Be aware of sensitivity of hair
All hair is different so bare in mind mixing ratios are there as a guideline .
Always do a test strand before going straight into colouring the whole head . For me to get the perfect result on Jade I worked different mixes on different strands of the hair .
Where her hair was most sensitised it grabbed quicker so I opted for less base 1 with my mix . Elsewhere I was able to go a bit heavier with the black in my mixture .
Anywhere you feel you are struggling to remove yellow from the hair add more violet but remember to achieve a very pale lift beforehand

Jesy from little mix hair colour

Jesy from Little Mix is a bit of a hair chameleon, able to pull different styles, all suiting her perfectly but very different 

Jesy has a medium skin tone so she can pull off lots of different looks. Early last year I used A  Summer Lites technique, placing lighter ribbons of colour around her face to illuminate her cheekbones and eyes. It is chic and expensive-looking colour which is surprisingly low-maintenance.

Then I went for a look with more drama and definition; blending a rich brunette base with the  Tissue Lites technique. This is great if you want a highlighted effect without looking stripy or false, and also gives the impression of volume.

Towards the end of last year, I  went seasonal and did a Winter Red; a bespoke, gorgeous red tailored to Jesy’s skin and eyes. I used different tones and balayaged the colour through to create a rich, glossy red, and used semi-permanent colour to keep it ultra-nourishing and kind to the hair.

The secret is to keep the tones around Jesy’s face soft and subtle, with more depth towards the back; the dark shade she is sporting at the moment has hints of mahogany, which softens the colour and makes it easier to wear.

 

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