Tips for in salon colourists
Creating the perfect grey/silver is totally bespoke to the person but there are some staple steps you must follow:
1) Very pale yellow blonde lift
Hair needs to be lifted to a clean pale blonde in order for the tone that gets placed on after to shine through
(I recommend checking sensitivity of the hair prior to going ahead with this .I love using L'Oréal platinum plus as it lifts whilst still hydrating the hair )
Because the lift is so bright and light you need to make sure it suits the wearer .
Opt for global all over greys if you are working with a client with light eyes such as blue and pale green or if like Jade they have darker eyes work with a more natural root and place the Lighter silver tones on the ends
3)The right undertone (undercoat )
With hair colour we have to really think about how colours will react when they are mixed
For instance red and blue will make purple
Or yellow and blue make green
Reason being if you use a colour containing blue on hair that Is yellow guess what colour you get ?...........a nice greeny blue
When lifting ,hair will often lift from red -orange -and Orange -yellow and yellow to pale yellow for the lightest result .
Before you put your grey tone on you need to remove that yellow shade to ensure the greeny blue thing doesn't happen .
I worked with a very light violet toner 10.22 dia light first and left that on until I achieved a delicate violet hue
(I wished for my silver to have a shimmer of violet so that is why I went for that )
4) When creating grey /silver you then want to be working with a combination of shades
The majority being the desired depth mixed with ash or clear natural
+ 1-4 cm of your black tone (the more black you add the darker your grey will be )and then you can add any additional tone to adjust your end result.
If you want it more blue add more blue ash
If you want more violet add more violet ash tone
+ 2cm 1 for a more violet
+ black for mor blue tone
5) Be aware of sensitivity of hair
All hair is different so bare in mind mixing ratios are there as a guideline .
Always do a test strand before going straight into colouring the whole head . For me to get the perfect result on Jade I worked different mixes on different strands of the hair .
Where her hair was most sensitised it grabbed quicker so I opted for less base 1 with my mix . Elsewhere I was able to go a bit heavier with the black in my mixture .
Anywhere you feel you are struggling to remove yellow from the hair add more violet but remember to achieve a very pale lift beforehand